Samoyed
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Overview
Samoyeds were one of the first dogs bred for companionship and working ability without any wolf genetics. They hail from Siberia, where they were sledding and hunting dogs for their nomadic owners. The Samoyede people also relied on these dogs for other aspects of their survival: at night, Samoyeds were allowed inside the tents to function as furry "blankets" at their owner's feet. During their intense yearly shedding period, people used their discarded under coats into woven clothes and blanket.
Samoyeds are majestic, happy-looking dogs. Their grooming needs are significant, as is their desire for companionship. With somewhat consistent training, these are cheerful dogs who enjoy greeting visitors and spending quality time with their families.
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Personality
Samoyeds are happy, friendly dogs who display their personality through their characteristic "Samoyed Smile." They are gentle and playful, but they are also clever. Samoyeds are known to develop their own entertainments if they are left alone, and to craft their own way out of barricades and closed doors. These working dogs like to keep busy and will often pace around the house or vocally express their desire to play. They will appreciate every chance for exercise, even if it is just a short romp outdoors or a quick game of fetch.
These dogs were bred to stick close to their owner's sides, not only for protection but also for warmth. The modern Samoyed holds on to his ancestors' protective instincts and need for companionship. He will prefer to spend time with his owner, whether inside or out. Samoyeds can be stubborn or resistant, so training will work best if it is positioned as positive quality time with their owners. Even though they enjoy barking, even recreationally, they are generally friendly with strangers .They will bark to announce all visitors, but they warm up quickly.
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Coat Care
Samoyeds weigh between 50 and 70 pounds, but their extremely thick, abundant coats make them look much larger. The male's coat is rougher than the female's, which can sometimes feel soft to the touch. The thick, soft under coat fits close to the body and has a wooly texture. The long outer coat stands straight out from the body and glistens with a silver sheen. The tail curves over the back like all Northern Spitz dogs'. Their paws are covered with soft fur to protect them from the cold and enable them to run outside in the snow without discomfort. The Samoyed's coat is almost always white, but it is occasionally seen in a light biscuit color.
Samoyeds need lots of regular grooming to keep that impressive coat from getting out of hand. They need to be brushed at least every other day to prevent matting. Start brushing with a large pin brush at the base of the Samoyed's coat and brush all the way to the end to remove any tangles or mats. Samoyeds shed one to two times a year, when they will need to be brushed daily to remove dead hair and prevent them from tracking hair throughout the entire house.
With preparation, perseverance and a positive attitude, bathing can become a fun and fulfilling part of the regular grooming cycle, while helping your dog avoid many diseases and infections.
Heavy coated dogs should be bathed about once every three months. Their coats are naturally oily and repellent, so they don't tend to develop an odor, but if they track their coat through the mud, they may need to be bathed more frequently. The coat should end up fresh smelling, with no loose or shedding hair. First give the dog a good brushing to remove dead hair and mats. Place a rubber mat in the tub to provide secure footing and fill the tub with three to four inches of lukewarm water. Use a spray hose, pitcher or unbreakable cup to wet the dog, taking caution to avoid getting water in the eyes, ears and nose. Massage in pet shampoo, saving the head for last. Immediately rinse thoroughly, starting with the head to prevent soap from dripping into the eyes. Towel dry. Their heavy coat should be fresh smelling, with no loose or shedding hair.
Clipping or trimming your dog’s coat is far easier than you would ever imagine. With the right clipper, trimmer and scissors, giving your dog a haircut is easy on your wallet and your schedule.
Dogs with heavy coats generally require routine trimming around the face, ears, feet and behind to help them stay comfortable. You do not need to clip or trim the body hair because it acts as insulation for your dog in cold weather and helps cool him off in warm weather. It’s a good idea to take your dog for a short walk to calm him down before you groom him. Thoroughly brush the coat to remove any tangles and mats. Use trimmers to trim excess fur off the dog's body, choosing the appropriate clip attachment to achieve desired length. Trim around the tail, paws, sanitary areas and chest, if needed. Groom the head and face last, being watchful for sudden movement. Trim with the flow of the fur, away from the eyes and nose.
Many dog owners are apprehensive about trimming their dog’s nails because they are nervous about cutting into the quick. But with the right conditioning and careful cutting, nail clipping can be a simple, stress-free activity for you and your dog.
Provide your dog with plenty of positive reinforcement and even treats to help associate nail clipping with a positive experience. As you start to clip, gently press on your dog’s paws to help him become accustomed to the feeling of having his nails clipped. Then, work gradually, shaving down just a thin portion of the nail at first to make sure you don’t reach the quick. Clip one nail, reward your dog with a treat, and stop to give him some positive reinforcement before moving on. Gradually increase the number of nails you clip in one sitting to help your dog get used to the process. Never trim extremely long nails down to a short nail in one sitting, because this is an excellent way to accidently quick the dog’s nail. Instead, work gradually, shaving small portions of your dog’s nails off each time.
You can tell if you’re getting close to the quick by the texture of your dog’s nail. The nail is hard closer to the surface and becomes softer as you get closer to the quick. If your dog’s nail starts to feel softer, that’s a good indication that you’re getting close to the quick.
Not all breeds and coat styles require routine trimming in and around the eyes and ears but all should undergo regular inspection and cleaning around these sensitive areas. Doing so will help prevent the development of infections that could seriously damage these amazing organs.
It is always important to routinely clean your dog's eyes and ears, and examine for potential infections. Small dogs, like Pomeranians, and dogs with extremely profuse coats, like Newfoundlands, American Eskimo Dogs and Keeshonds, have ears that need to be checked weekly for infection and cleaned with a cotton ball. Gently wipe a cotton ball moistened with mineral oil, olive oil or witch hazel in your dog's ear, being careful to avoid the ear canal. Never use a Q-Tip, which could cause damage to the inner ear if your dog suddenly shakes or jerks his head. Bushy hair growth within the ear can be thinned with tweezers or blunt scissors. Use a small trimmer to trim excess hair around the eyes, ears and face. Small dogs like Pomeranians and Pekingese, and dogs with white coats like American Eskimo Dogs and Samoyeds, are prone to developing tear stains around their eyes, so clean around their eyes with a cotton ball or soft cloth and use a small trimmer to trim excess hair around their eyes.
Many owners do not realize how important it is to brush your pet’s teeth on a regular basis. Some dogs are prone to dental problems and sensitive teeth, especially small dogs with tiny teeth and dogs with special diets. These problems can be easily combatted with frequent brushing.
Cavities are rare with dogs but gum disease caused by tartar buildup is not, which is why they require regular brushing with toothpaste and a toothbrush formulated specifically for dogs. While daily brushing is ideal, doing so on a weekly basis will be a big help in avoiding the need to bring your dog to a veterinarian for a cleaning, which usually has to be done under sedation.